At one point, Kevin Kathman thought he'd practice law, not culinary skills. (Pioneer Press: Scott Takushi)

Occupation: Executive chef, Restaurant Max (Minneapolis Hotel, 215 Fourth St., Minneapolis, 612-215-5450; therestaurantmax.com)

Age: 35

What did you want to be when you grew up? I think for a brief period in high school and college, I was heading in the direction of attorney.

What was your first job in food? A dishwasher when I was 18 at a restaurant in Door County, Wis.

When did you decide to become a chef? I started at New England Culinary Institute when I was 19 and was cooking at the French Laundry (in Napa Valley) when I was 20. I went for a six-month internship and stayed for six years. As a kid coming out of Minnesota and landing at a four-star restaurant was tough, but I made it through.

How did you wind up back in Minnesota? I had a very successful restaurant in Southern California with my wife. She passed away, and when it came time to renew the lease, I needed a break and came home. I was looking for jobs here, and the only place hiring was Morrissey Hospitality. It has been a wonderful challenge for me. I think if I can turn Max around, I should be able to do just about anything down the road.

What's the dish you are most proud of? I think we've got a really great cod dish, and it's really beautiful. I was just sitting around one day and thinking about cod and chowder, and it turned into a clam chowder

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base and I separated out all the components.

What's something few people know about Restaurant Max? Our best-kept secret right now is we do a tasting menu. We don't advertise it. We just start cooking and make it happen, and it can be magical.

What's the dish you hate to cook? Calf's liver. I'm not a big liver guy. Pates and big livery terrines just don't do it for me.

What culinary trend do you wish would die? I don't wish it would die, but the trend that concerns me is molecular gastronomy. There are a handful of people who can do it, but kids out of culinary who can barely peel a carrot are trying that stuff.

What's your favorite restaurant? La Belle Vie (in Minneapolis) is the only place I ever eat. The boys over there do a great job. And I love the bar.

What's the weirdest food you've ever eaten? I don't eat bugs or anything. I love sweetbreads, and I guess that would have to be considered a weird food.

What's next? To see Max become a destination restaurant. I've got a big project on my hands here. I have to work my butt off and be very patient, and I think this place may be great and very special in six months.