Pop! pops. You'd never recognize the former Fhima's. Gone are the naked ladies hanging on the wall, the knee-wrenching low chairs in the bar and the spare decor. Now, it's all about bold colors, texture, comfort — and Pop! culture.

Clark and Leslie Knutson brought the spinoff of their Minneapolis restaurant to Sixth and Wabasha in downtown St. Paul, and on the first day, the kitchen and wait staff were already in sync. They turned out a mix of Pop! staples and small plates — chicken posole soup, steamed clams, Swedish meatballs, shrimp couscous with chorizo and olive relish, and fried potatoes with spicy paprika. The house-made blueberry-lavender lemonade was not only refreshing but also matched the decor.

The Knutsons have aspirations of attracting families and urban diners. To that end, a kids' menu and happy hour are part of the mix.

Looks like this is going to be a good one for downtown St. Paul.

6 W. Sixth St., St. Paul; 651-228-1002. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, dinner only on Sunday. Lunch prices $4.25 to $10.75.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants. Pioneer Press restaurant critic Kathie Jenkins can be reached at 651-228-5585 or kjenkins@pioneerpress.com. Read more about the restaurant scene on the Eat blog at blogs.twincities.com/eat.


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